Greetings! Having just returned from Marrakech, I’m touched and inspired by the grace, dignity, and beauty of Morocco and its people.
Given our current political administration, it would have been easy to understand if as Americans we were met with reticence, anger, or fear in this Muslim-majority country. Yet, our experience could not have been further from these ready assumptions. From the moment we arrived, we were greeted by the people of Marrakech with waves of grace and hospitality. Kindness and generosity extended to all of the interactions we witnessed. This was not the exception; it was the norm. Each day we were surprised by the assistance and support that were freely offered. Strangers gave directions, led us through the mesmerizing labyrinth of the ancient Souks, helped us locate misplaced valuables, guided us towards easier steps, and reconnected us to our fellow travelers. Children in the Medina shared smiles and words that melted the word foreigner under the hot desert sun. All of this brought a return, a return to being held, to being connected by our own tribal nature, to sense once again a place of heart and connection to our own Indigenous Souls. This is perhaps the greatest lost need of American culture. To live, if even briefly, so that we may remember ourselves, to glance in a beautiful mirror of our disowned other. Immersing ourselves in a culture that prioritizes Divinity, family, the collective over the individual, and values relationship above all else, is essential. Like the best of lovers and places, Marrakech and its people welcome you, mystify you with their grace and dignity, and balm the wound of separation. And you simply must sit with them, enjoy the conversation, and mint tea.
Empowering Women
We were privileged to spend time with Maryam Montague – writer, human rights specialist, as well as chief curator, designer and hotelier at our home base for the week, Peacock Pavilions. Working with her husband, architect Chris Redecke, they have created a peaceful, strikingly designed oasis in an olive grove on the outskirts of Marrakech. The belief behind the handmade, artisanal boutique hotel is that “travel experiences should be good, make good, and do good.”
During our visit with Maryam, we gained insight into her design philosophy and saw how this was evoked in Peacock Pavilions. Her philosophy is steeped in the country’s rich culture and its beliefs, creating a spellbinding effect in its telling. “Moroccan design is built on magic. People are in touch with the idea of magic. Spirituality and the supernatural are embodied in their design.” Genies, a key figure in the country’s lore, are uncontrollable, powerful and ever-mischievous and need to be guarded against. Maryam described in detail elements that are integral to the design of their homes and lives: the thoughtful (and protective) keyhole door; the heart of the house as a protective sanctuary; the use of interior fountains (a respite from the desert) and of indigo blue (the most protective of all colors); and the creation of an open-air central courtyard — the better to see the heavens and have a daily reminder of what awaits you. And we learned that Morocco has a unique numerology system. Eight is the number of paradise and features prominently in the eight-sided domed ceilings. The number five is a very powerful and protective number. People give gifts of five, and five figures in the hamsa – the hand being a symbol that extends across cultures, creating a sense of larger community.
Maryam shared that, “If we changed our architecture, we would feel so much better.” We would be more connected to nature and to our basic wisdom that we’ve grown out of touch with. You can learn more about her distinctive design philosophy in her book, “Marrakesh by Design: Decorating with All the Colors, Patterns, and Magic of Morocco.”
We’ve shared photos, inspiration and learnings from the retreat on Instagram and we’ll continue to do so in the coming weeks.
This is more of a thank you note than a comment. Angelica, you are a prolific writer. Your words are like poetry. Thank you for sharing your delicious experience.